This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when you are done as it will most likely get stripped. After protecting above the cavemantle grab some round jugs to gain access into the upper handcrack portion of the climb which gobbles gear all the way to the top.
Location
This route is the furthest developed obvious crack climb to the east on the South Wall across the river from the North Wall. It is located just to the right of a hangerless 5.12 sport route that probably never gets climbed. Walk down about 100 yards to the west. A couple 5th class moves are required on this down climb
Protection
Stoppers, 1 set if Aliens, Doubles of Camalots from #1 to #4, and trad runners. Belay from live trees and supplement with gear. If top roping trail a long static line for a good TR set.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 8, 2008 rating: 5.10c
This climb protects well at its crux with a #4 cam placed horizontally just above the mantle shelf, on the right side. I found no need to mess with the hangerless bolts from the climb that once existed to the left of this climb.
I added the FA info, which I found in Cam Burn's history section in 'Jemez Rock'.
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