(07) Open Book 

FA:  Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.9- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 260 page views Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 30, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is the slick open book is probably the hardest 5.8 in White Rock/Los Alamos, and is unfortunately a classic.

Stem or jam your way up the first 15' of thin hands in the back of the open book (crux) to a few good holds, and a stemming rest. This cruxy part is real slick, and spits off many people, but pro is good. Next, lieback or scum your way up a right-facing corner with a wide hand crack in the back to another good rest where a slab/ramp heads up and left while an overhanging headwall looms above. Follow up this airy ramp, which has better footholds on the left edge, where it's a little more exposed. The top-out mantle move isn't too tough, unless you're really pumped.

Location 

This is the obvious open book that begins just left of the cave on the north side.

Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.