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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
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(11) Honest Abe 

5.10+

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 69 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Mar 16, 2009


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Right of the climbs through the high roof- is this left-facing corner, which is more awkward than classic, but still pretty fun.

This climb has a weird part off the ground getting onto a big block. This is followed by an awkward move squirming into a flare, or liebacking to get in there. I thought this part was the crux of the climb, and it protects pretty well with a finger size cam before you start the crux sequence.
At the top, pull on hand jams through a steep finish. It's fun and easier than it looks like it will be.

Jemez Rock lists this as 5.11a; Josh said 10b, so I'll try to be honest and leave the rating in between.


Protection 

Nuts and cams up to a 2".
2-bolt anchor, with chains (thanks to Walt, probably).



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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d

A new #4 camalot protects the first funky moves off the "ground" (really off of a small ledge about five feet off the ground so it's nice to have this #4)

By Wa3lt
Mar 23, 2009

I named this route after my (now sadly departed) dog Abe, who accompanied Luke and I all over White Rock on our climbing adventures. I recall it being hardish 5.10. But it's been 10+ years, so my opinion isn't worth much there.