Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Playground
Show routes:
Select route...
(01) Unknown 
(02) Open Project 
(03) Mononucleosis 
(04) Burnt Crack 
(05) Unrelenting Nines 
(06) Unnamed 
(07) T2 Flake 
(08) First Strike 
(09) Original Horak Route 
(10) Luke and Carlo's route 
(11) Zander Zigzag 
(12) Texas 
(13) Flying A Buttress 
(14) Flying A 
(15) The Playgrounder 
(16) Unnamed 
(17) Unknown 
(18) Unnamed 
(19) The Cheeks 
(20) Unknown 
(21) Vulture Roof 
(22) Moment of Inertia 
(23) Tree Climb 
(24) Mr. Foster's Lead 
(25) Unknown 
(26) Black Wall 
(28) Cactus Climb 
(29) Face Variation 
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 
(31) Advanced Start 
(32) Upper Left Roof 
(33) Fingertip Layback 
(34) Barlow's Buttress 
(35) Battle of the Bulge 
(36) Flakey Nine 
(37) Unnamed 
(38) Blow Hole 
(39) Repo Man 
(40) Moon Dog 
Playground Traverse 

(06) Unnamed 

5.10 PG13

   

FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 58 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Feb 6, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

It's too bad the next shallow corner right of Unrelenting Nines is kind of sandy and dirty, because the climbing is pretty fun with good exposure, and it's another lighter 5.10 at the Playground. The dirtiness is probably largely due to lack of traffic, which is probably because the guidebooks emphasize the 5.12 rating rather than the 5.10 variation.

It is easiest to begin in the big corner to the right and traverse in along a big flake/rail, then make moves up a featured arete to gain the shallow corner. At the top, the features in this corner peter out- face climb using a flake to the right for a couple moves before exit. For the 5.12a grade, use the direct start in a seam on the face to the left.

There are a few places for gear, but expect 5.10 moves with the last gear placement below your feet. The 5.12 variation reportedly protects well enough for a 5.12 leader.


Location 

This is the next climbable corner right of Unrelenting Nines, near the left end of the Playground. The hard start (12a) is about 6' right of Nines; the easier start is in the next inside corner to the right, under an alcove.


Protection 

Cams to 2", and nuts, including RPs.