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Playground Traverse 

(13) Flying A Buttress 

5.12a X

   

FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 125 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 9, 2009


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Description 

Flying A Buttress is a fun thin face toprope problem, taking on the buttress and face left of Flying A and right of Texas. It is rather sustained, with about the first 30' of continuous face climbing at approx. hard 5.11 with a short section with one or two harder moves.

A bouldery start with sidepull holds and small crimps gets you to a stance above the small bulge 8' up- this is a fun boulder problem in of itself. Thin crimping past the small roof and you can grab a larger flat-topped ledge. Mantle-ing onto this ledge is tricky, then a weird move to more crimps, lets you reach the thinnest and cruxiest section of the climb (in my opinion); bear down on tiny edges for 2 or 3 moves on the slightly overhanging face. Better horizontal holds are above, and the hard part of the climbing is done after 30' up.

Obviously the "Flying A crack" is considered "off" throughout the climb but for the most part moving over to it is not too tempting, so it's not unreasonably contrived.

The line as shown in 'Jemez Rock' is a little off- the start should be independent and just left of the chimney that is the typical start for Flying A.

(I toproped this route -as does virtually everybody else- and I think the only place you could get get any meaningful pro is the horizontal crack under the roof about 12' up. I think if you fell at what I think is the hardest part, you would deck from about 25' up, maybe landing on rocks. The climbing gets easier above, but there are still no more gear placements until almost the very top. I think one would be better off soloing vs leading.)


Protection 

Toprope, from the 2-bolt anchor for Flying A.