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Sununu Place
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Barbara's Midnight Missile 
Bush Whacker 
Unnamed 

Bush Whacker 

5.9

   

FA: Cam Burns, Paul Fehlau
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 102 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 31, 2008


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Description 

Bush Whacker is the right of the 2 sport climbs at the Sununu Place. I figure the FAs are complementing the 1st prez Bush rather than the 2nd one.

Pick out the first bolts down and left of an obvious roof. Getting to the first bolt is a little strange, you can come in from easier climbing to the right and just barely clip it if you don't like 5.9 moves off the ground. The crux is a steep reachy move to a jug just above the first bolt. Fun climbing up a shallow left-facing corner leads to the top. At the last bolt, traverse left to the anchor for Barbara's Midnight Missile.

The new Jemez guide calls this climb 5.8+; the original guide says 5.9+.


Protection 

3 bolts with homemade hangers. (The old guide reports the hangers were stolen, but they are currently present.) At the top, traverse left to the 2-bolt anchor for Barbaras Midnight Missile.



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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.9

This might get two stars if it had a direct anchor a little higher than where you traverse to BMM. The climb is fun but the traverse unnatural and contrived. Cammo what were you thinking on this one?

By cammo
Oct 22, 2009

Thinking? Sorry Scott, I don't do thinking.....

By Wa3lt
Oct 24, 2009

Luke Laeser and I replaced the hangers on these routes many years ago with super-ghetto angle iron ones we had sitting around. I believe Luke made them in shop class.