This squeezed bolted face climb is one of the more recent additions to the BONP, and is omitted from the guidebooks despite having been bolted in 97; the route name and FA info I found in Walt's LA climbing update pages from the late 90s (and info from S.Beguin).
Scramble up the blocky crack at the start of Ralph's Dilemma, as you would for Flesh Eating Gnats, then step right and climb up the face left of the 'Gnats' arete. Crimp up fun and progressively thinning face to the last bolt, which is followed by an overhanging section to the chains. I thought the last move was the hardest, reachiest, and most strenuous move on the climb, with a powerful lieback to reach the holds to clip the chains. The crack to the left is assumed to be 'off', although it would be a little stupid to avoid using the crack below the first bolt (unless you stickclip it?).
The climb is perhaps offensive to some because the anchors provide convenient pro for the crux roof traverse on the previously established crack climb to its left Ralphs Dilemma.
Location
The bolted climb left of Flesh Eating Gnats and right of the crack Ralphs Dilemma.
Nathaniel may have been involved, but Walt Wehner actually bolted the route.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 15, 2009 rating: 5.11c
Deserves a lot more traffic than it gets. The last move is indeed the hardest, but is also the most fun in my opinion.
I don't think this climb feels very contrived but it does reduce the aesthetics of Ralph's Dilemma. Probably shouldn't have been bolted, but now that is has, you might as well climb it.
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