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(02.1) Crap On 
(02.2) Unnamed 
(02.3) Beginner's 
(04) Avalauncher 
(05) Flare 
(06) Sharon's Sandbag 
(06.1) Sharon's Lead 
(07) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(09) Rumsey's Lead 
(11) Batshit Crack 
(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 
(13) Thumb Action 
(14) Phone Booth 
(16) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(17) Twin Cracks 
(18) Hard Crack 

(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 

5.12a R

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 87 page views

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 22, 2008


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Description 

Pure Thoughts begins in the obvious shallow dihedral just right of Batshit Crack (.10b). After several 5.11 moves in the dihedral, pulling and balancing on bad feet and poor hands in the seam, the crux is gaining the top of the dihedral. Above the dihedral, conquer an interesting bulge by veering left (5.11), then tackle a featured face (5.10-) to the top.

Lots of fun with a wide variety of moves.


Protection 

Most people top rope this one. A 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.

For the brave, the crux can be protected with <1" cams in the pod at the center of the seam... protection gets scarce up higher. Definitely deserving of an R rating.



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By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009

AFAIK, this was known as "Open Book" back in the day.