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New New Place
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(02.1) Crap On 
(02.2) Unnamed 
(02.3) Beginner's 
(04) Avalauncher 
(05) Flare 
(06) Sharon's Sandbag 
(06.1) Sharon's Lead 
(07) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(09) Rumsey's Lead 
(11) Batshit Crack 
(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 
(13) Thumb Action 
(14) Phone Booth 
(16) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(17) Twin Cracks 
(18) Hard Crack 

(02.1) Crap On 

5.7 PG13

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 30 feet
Views: 87 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 22, 2008


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Description 

Borrowing the naming convention from Fred Rassmussen, this route climbs better than the name implies. Stem up the clean, low angle dihedral as it steepens and then finish with nice pockets on the vertical wall. Just as you're getting warmed up and into the groove, the route ends.


Location 

This is the first dihedral route just right, north, of the "orange rough wall" on the far south end of the area. Look for the words Crap on spray painted on the rock. This route goes up and left from that graffiti.


Protection 

Gear on this route appears infrequent and tiny but it turns out that nice horizontal cracks on the sides of the dihedral offer opportunities for .5 and .75 camalots. A 0 or 00 C3 would fit in one spot down low in the corner of the dihedral. Gear anchor at top or, if you're lucky, maybe a couple of bolts. Please avoid the temptation to tie off from the tree. The New New Place already looks bad enough from all the graffiti--we don't need dead trees to add to it.