Awkward start off the ground to an overhanging hand crack, followed by a good rest. Unprotected over the bulge on slopers directly above; or step left, make a weird undercling step back right; (or begin the entire climb as for Batshit Crack and traverse left above this- variation 10 in photo). A thin shallow dihedral above has just enough small gear placements to keep it sane. When you reach the finger crack, you're through the crux.
Location
This climb is about 10' left of Batshit Crack.
Protection
Nuts and cams to 3". 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees, with the expressed blessing of the FA.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 21, 2008 rating: 5.10d
A #000 C3 protects the awkward undercling bulge move from the left pretty well. It's still at your feet when you're pulling over it but the fall would be pretty clean I think.
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