The next crack system left of the Twin Cracks is an excellent 5.8 or 5.9 climb, and a good choice for a leader keen on breaking into this grade.
Two options begin this climb, both are finger crack size, starting just right of the yucca bush, moving off the obvious flake along a crack to the right or left of a block. Both starts are about the same difficulty, but the left start is called 'the Easy Start' because it can be used to avoid the crux of Phone Booth also. The right start is more usual because it is directly under the anchor and the upper dihedral system. Regardless of which you choose, both options are 5.8+. Midway up, you reach a good rest, and enter a dihedral with a wide crack in the back where most will stem and chimney using small edges on either wall. This is the mental crux of the route.
Location
This climb is right of Phone Booth and left of Twin Cracks, on the right side of the New New Place, behind the yucca bush.
Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM 2 days ago rating: 5.8+
Super fun route, with interesting movement the whole way up. Seemed more on the 5.8 side of things to me, but the bottom half may be a bit harder for short people.
RSS Feed
