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New New Place
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(02.1) Crap On 
(02.2) Unnamed 
(02.3) Beginner's 
(04) Avalauncher 
(05) Flare 
(06) Sharon's Sandbag 
(06.1) Sharon's Lead 
(07) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(09) Rumsey's Lead 
(11) Batshit Crack 
(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 
(13) Thumb Action 
(14) Phone Booth 
(16) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(17) Twin Cracks 
(18) Hard Crack 

(05) Flare 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008


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Description 

Flare is one of 3 5.9s in the shorter left section of the New New Place. The flared slot about 15' up is pretty obvious, and is the crux of the climb. Above, the crack is still pretty thin, but more features are present. As a lead, this climb is alright to try, but is a step up in difficulty from the cracks on either of side of it, because the gear is mostly pretty small and not always exactly where you want it. (Truly PG13 or not..? I don't know. Don't do it as your first 5.9 though.)


Location 

Flare goes up the flared slot near the left side of the New New Place. It is up and left of the giant skull graffiti.


Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 2".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 PG13

I found a gray BD C3 (#000) protects the thin crack at the flare very well. Up higher the protection gets less and less obvious but the climbing isn't as sustained there.