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New New Place
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(02.1) Crap On 
(02.2) Unnamed 
(02.3) Beginner's 
(04) Avalauncher 
(05) Flare 
(06) Sharon's Sandbag 
(06.1) Sharon's Lead 
(07) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(09) Rumsey's Lead 
(11) Batshit Crack 
(12) Pure Thoughts (aka Open Book) 
(13) Thumb Action 
(14) Phone Booth 
(16) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(17) Twin Cracks 
(18) Hard Crack 

(17) Twin Cracks 

5.9

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 45 feet
Views: 90 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 12, 2008


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Description 

Jam and stem up parallel finger to hands cracks on less-than-vertical rock. As the cracks diverge commit to the right crack and pull up and over a block to a huge ledge. From the ledge, enjoy great laybacking up the giant flake with good feet on the face.
2-bolt anchor at the top, installed to prevent further damage to trees.

A couple of variations from the top of the twin cracks have been reported but I haven't been on them. Both go at 5.10. Either go straight up from the top of the twin cracks or go left from the top of the twin cracks.


Location 

Near the very right (northern) end of the New New Place. Easily identified by the parallel cracks to start.


Protection 

Doubles of Camalots from .5 to 2. A couple of #4 camalots protect the huge flake layback up higher.