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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
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(01) True Grit 
(02) La Petit Mort 
(03) Ring of Fire 
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(05) Cactus Box 
(06) Slim Pickens 
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(08) Unknown 
(09) Beta Maniac 
(10) I Wanna Be Sedated 
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(12) Revolution Whenever 
(13) Pull My Finger 
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(15) Gook Magic 
(16) Ninja Turtle Crack 

(15) Gook Magic 

5.10d

   

FA: Theo Takeda (late 90s?)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 114 page views

Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Gook Magic


Description 

This climbed up the obvious S-shaped hand crack, then pull some technical maneuvers straight up the face above the S-crack. The climb is much harder than it looks.


Location 

This route is on the right side of the crag approximately 70 feet to the right of (05) Cactus Box.


Protection 

No Bolts, anchor with gear.



Comments on (15) Gook Magic Add Comment
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By Wa3lt
Jan 1, 2009

FA on this was by Theo Takeda in the late 90s?

By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d

This climb has a 2-bolt anchor, though the ratty rope/sling probably ought to be replaced, with chains, ideally.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Rack with nuts & cams up to #2 camalot, with 2 each of #1 camalot helpful.

By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009

Hey George - I don't remember bolting any anchors at Estante/Crack House. Maybe I did, though. It's certainly possible.