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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
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(01) True Grit 
(02) La Petit Mort 
(03) Ring of Fire 
(04) Unknown 
(05) Cactus Box 
(06) Slim Pickens 
(07) Shamuvin' 
(08) Unknown 
(09) Beta Maniac 
(10) I Wanna Be Sedated 
(11) Honest Abe 
(12) Revolution Whenever 
(13) Pull My Finger 
(14) It Just Turns Into A Seam! 
(15) Gook Magic 
(16) Ninja Turtle Crack 

(01) True Grit 

5.11b

   

FA: Walt Wehner and Mick Schein, 1996
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 81 page views

Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This rout ascends black rock just to the right of some bubbly basalt knobs. The first 15 feet are the crux, then some fun moves lead out of a scoop and continue up an overhanging wall to the top.


Location 

If you are facing the Crack House, this is the fourth line in from the left which is approximately 50 feet from the beginning of the crag.


Protection 

No bolts, anchor with gear.



Comments on (01) True Grit Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.11b

I didn't like the looks of the pro potential at the start of this route and went up an alternate start about 8 feet to the right. It's a small finger crack in a smooth corner with an awkward, height dependent move to get into the super positive finger crack. A couple more fingery moves lead to mantle on top of the big block joining the standard route about half way up.
There's a huge, loose block just right of the exit that shifted as I pulled on it. I "X"ed it with chalk. The anchor situation on this route kinda blows...lots of loose stuff up there. I'll take my drill and some hardware next time to rectify this.

By Wa3lt
Mar 21, 2009

I did the FA of this in 1996 or so with Mick Schein. Not sure if I did Jason's start or just ran it out at the beginning.

All of the routes here could really use some bolted anchors, IMO. Some of them could probably even use some protection bolts here and there.