(18) Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 

FA:  G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 45 feet Views: 152 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...

Description 

This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, up an awkward crack and around a little roof split by great hand cracks. These moves can involve a combination of jamming and stemming, or even try facing out and backstepping.
This leads to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left crack seems to protect better.

Location 

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection 

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.

Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.

Photos of (18) Pillars of Hercules (right var.) Slideshow

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Courtney P., taking a bit of a rest after pulling ...