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(01) God Route (aka Mike's Route) 
(02) Momentum 
(03) Direct Start 
(04) Bee Sting 
(05) High Roof Left 
(06) High Roof Right 
(07) Unknown 
(08) Tetherball 
(09) Jet Stream 
(10) Unknown 
(11) Direct Start 
(12) Total Abstinence 
(13) Sinewave (aka S Crack) 
(14) Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 
(15) Gulf Stream 
(16) Unknown 
(17) Unknown 
(18) 4-Star Arete 
(19) Unknown 
(20) Unknown 
(21) Berserker 
(22) Unknown (ONP Right End) 

(16) Unknown 

5.11a/b

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 86 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Mar 14, 2008


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Description 

Climb a height-dependent reachy start in a seam with large-RP for pro to prevent groundfall to a rest (5.9). Step left below a small triangular roof.
Turn this with tiny cams or small nuts in a seam (5.11- crux), reach for painful fingers in the portions of the crack that are wide enough for fingers, and climb through the crux with nubs for feet. Steep featured climbing in the shallow open book lies above and is generally 5.10, with more small nuts & small cams for pro.


Location 

This climb is route 16 in the ONP topo/photo

It starts about 15' right of Rattlesnake Crack in a seam shared with Route 17 then busts left of that route.


Protection 

Cams from micro to handsize, especially #00 and #0 TCUs or equivalent tiny cams. 1 set nuts, including RPs.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.