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Tortilla Flats
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Frijoles Crack 
Jalapeno Crack 
Not My Lichen 
Tortilla Slab crack 
Tortilla Slab left 
Unnamed, left face 
Unnamed, left of the nose 
Unnamed, right face 

Tortilla Slab left 

5.9-

   

FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 111 page views

Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 3, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed, Tortilla Slab left, 5.9(?), Tortilla Flat...


Description 

This appears to be the same route as #3 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, rated at 5.9-. Also it is described as route #3 in the online guide, rated as a "5.9 Face/Friction" line.

It's not clear if the 5.7 crack immediately to the right is on or off route. If the crack is off, then this was most likely intended to be a toproped climb, due to the absence of bolts, because part of the bottom one-third of the face probably clocks in at well over 5.10 or 11 (imagine slick smearing on smooth, patinated, shallow ripples of basalt) with no pro and high groundfall potential. Even if the crack is on, the upper one-third of this face route diverges from the crack and would be sketchy to lead on gear, although it's more like 5.8 at the top. Overall it feels kind of contrived (as I understand the line). Any FA information as to the original intent of this line?


Location 

Ascends the left half of the Tortilla Slab, located near the northernmost (leftmost) end of the cliff.


Protection 

Toprope?



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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Mar 3, 2008

My 5.9 rating is strictly for historical purposes; I really don't know what to rate this line, depends on what part of it you climb I guess. I'll add/subtract info to this route description if anyone has additional beta or comments. Help is appreciated.