Start by hopping up on a block to a left-angling flake to a giant pocket which you can heel hook, then continue up a right-angling thin seam up a leaning dihedral that is tricky to get good gear placements (crux), then surmount the end of the overhanging dihedral to exit.
Location
This route is located about 15 feet to the north (right) of Unrelenting Nines.
Protection
small to medium stoppers and cams, and some huevos. Anchor with gear.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 12, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Although it's not clear that its going to take pro when you're on the ground, I found enough small nut and RP placements in the seam that it didn't feel unusually runout. Until you're through the business, this seam is too thin for cams except it takes a TCU in one place. It is strenuous to hold on while trying to place gear, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for an onsight attempt.
In the flake section below the seam, the largest cam you can place is a #1 camalot, so don't bring anything bigger than that.
I really like this climb and think it's one of the better ones on the cliff. Because it's sustained and there aren't any good rests until the very end of the route. And the giant pocket is cool.
EDIT (Dec. 08): I led this again, fell, and ripped out two marginal small pieces, before being caught by a red camalot at the top of the big flake- clean fall, with big air, but this climb might be more serious than I'd thought- it wigged me out enough that I aided the rest (by fiddling with small nuts you can place them every 1' or 2' in the seam). Preplacing some gear might be a good idea depending on your style/ values.
EDIT (Feb. 09): Gave it another go placing gear on lead, found a solid medium stopper placement in the pocket/horizontal crack about 7' above the top of the flake. Good enough to protect through to the exit holds, and way more confidence-inspiring than small nuts in the seam.
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