Getting ready to deal with the roof. January 2008....
Description
The first half of the climb ascends big ledges with positive holds in the huge right-facing corner. The climb steepens midway up- use positive horizontal holds just right of the crack. Continue to nearly below the high roof, which now appears larger than it did below. Traverse left under the roof, and stuff some gear in the finger crack overhead. Committing to the highstep/lieback moves past this roof provides the crux of the route, but soon you'll reach the thank-god exit jugs on the ledge at the top of the route.
This, and Beginner's Hand Jam are the most popular 5.9s at the Playground, I think.
The Fingertip Lieback variation (#33) begins in the next thin crack to the right. It's rated 10d, and is a fun committing lieback which joins the Upper Left Roof route midway up. It is protectable with small nuts at its crux, then small cams, but placing gear on this variation is difficult to do from the liebacking stances with poor feet.
You can also finish the route through the next crack to the right to exit the high roof. This is reachy and probably about 5.10d?
Location
Toward the right side of the Playground, a prominent row of 3 high roofs way up high bars easy access to the top. Upper Left Roof follows the prominent right-facing corner that is below the leftmost of these roofs. This climb is the 2nd crack right of the splitter Beginners Hand Jam handcrack.
Protection
Rack of cams and nuts to 3". Gear placements are abundant throughout the climb.
A 2-bolt anchor for Upper Left Roof was re-installed, down on the ledge.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM May 29, 2009 rating: 5.9+
We pulled off the scary loose block under the roof today as it was starting to get pretty scary. This didn't appreciably change the difficulty of the climb; I think it is solid 5.9 with or without it.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM May 30, 2009 rating: 5.9
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