Cactus Climb and BHJ. Blue = Cactus Climb (as per ...
Description
Tricky moves off the ground are passed by stemming/liebacking to a bomber hold up and right. Cruise straight up easy 5.7-ish climbing of the next 2/3 of the climb to another thin section where the crack narrows to fingers. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, however these are passed by finding hidden undercling/lieback holds and a single big move for the topout jug which you know has to be good (crux). Finding pro at the crux moves is somewhat tricky, however, small nuts or thin finger cams can be placed with creativity and care. It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.
Location
The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.
Protection
Bring 1 set cams to 2", 1 set wired nuts. A 2-bolt anchor for Cactus Climb, reachable from the very top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 30, 2008 rating: 5.10c
A fun 5.8/9-ish variation on this route is to move well to the left after the initial tricky start moves to a the nice-but-too-short wide finger crack to shallow dihedral.
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