(15.1) Crisis In Utopia 

FA:  Peter Gram and Susie Murphy Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 257 page views Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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On his way to a solid onsight, Mike Wheat makes th...

Description 

This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!

Location 

This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.

Protection 

Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.