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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
DescriptionThe Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors. Getting ThereTo get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Playground:
(12) Texas 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
(32) Upper Left Roof 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
(36) Flakey Nine 5.9+ Trad, TR, 60 feet
(28) Cactus Climb 5.10b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet
(26) Black Wall 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
(38) Blow Hole 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
(14) Flying A 5.11- Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
(05) Unrelenting Nines 5.11c/d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For The Playground
 Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing. The Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.An immediate crux is the first 15', where you climb a finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks! You can avoi...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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