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(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
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(18) P.M.S. 

5.10a

   

FA: Mike Schillaci, 9/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Views: 206 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007


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Description 

P.M.S. is a popular warmup at BONP, and is the easiest of the sport climbs at the crag.

Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out. If you can control your hormones, try it without using the arete, which makes for a fun but contrived 5.11a.

Be careful not to send the loose gravel on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.


Location 

The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). At least 2 guidebooks say "only 3 bolts", but there are really 4 (the highest bolt is newer?).



Comments on (18) P.M.S. Add Comment
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a

I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a

Nice, clean, and sustained climbing but still the easiest sport route at BONP. The face on the left (with the arete off) is a little dirty and probably a bit of a sandbag at 11a, but it climbs all right.