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(10) Flesh-Eating Gnats 

5.11b

   

FA: Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, 5/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 372 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007


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Really nice, sustained arete climbing.


Description 

One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left (easy) or the right (harder- perhaps with hard moves before you clip the 1st bolt). As you move up, look for holds on both sides of the arete and some strange stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less featured and steeper, but only a few moves are needed to get through this cruxy part, and the chalked holds may provide clues as to what to go for.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.


Location 

Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).

Route 10 in Monomaniac's beta photo


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of (10) Flesh-Eating Gnats Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Flesh Eating Gnats.

Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...


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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b

The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.