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(33) Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 

(28) Sardonic Smile 

5.12a

   

FA: Brian Riepe, 8/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 105 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This route would be pretty good if it weren't so dirty. Unfortunately, it's currently covered in a thick film of mud that really detracts from the climbing experience.

If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.


Location 

At the right end of BTONP, this route climbs the center of a wide light-gray wall.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor shared with Color of My Potion. May want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a ledge fall.