Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tough lower section to first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs. Staying on the face is 5.11c. Using the arete on the right makes is 5.10d-ish.
Location
The steep, pocketed face right of "No Exit" and left of "Cholla Wall". Shown as route number 9 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Really nice climbing on small pockets with a wicked increasing angle up top. Do keep off the arete - the climbing up the face is great, and no scary fall.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 5, 2009 rating: 5.11c
Re: Using the arete... I highly doubt the route will go at 5.10 even using the arete the whole way. I send someone up it who wanted to TR a 5.10+ and he got shut down. Then I proceeded to tie in and try it with the arete - it seemed really awkward and difficult unless you used holds way onto Cholla Wall (in which case it is difficult to lead or TR). I ended up moving back left onto the face. IMO, you're better off just keeping on the face and saving yourself from the retrospective guilt after your send.
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