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(01) Bosker Boozeroo 
(02) Squeeze Chimney 
(02.5) Boy What Nice Fellows 
(03) Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 
(04) 5.8 Crack (a.k.a. Dirty Bomb) 
(04.5) Unknown Bolted Face 
(05) Paul's Boutique 
(06) Headwall Crack Left 
(07) No Exit 
(08) Headwall Crack Right 
(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream 
(10) Cholla Wall 
(11) Cholla Crack 
(12) Holy Wall 
(13) Holy Crack 
(14) Dave's Face 
(15) Way Beyond Zebra 
(16) Polly's Crack 
(17) Thief in Time 
(18) RDD Crack (a.k.a. Unknown) 
(19) Narcissistic Dream 
(20) Face Off 
(21) Unknown 
(22) M.C. Epic 
(22.5) Unknown 
(23) Captain Smarmbag 
(23.5) Donde Estan Mis Pantalones 
(24) Box Overhang Left 
(25) Len's Roof 
(25.5) Overture 
(26) Box Overhang Right 
(27) On Beyond Zebra 
(28) Sensuous S 
(29) Thorazine Dream 

(07) No Exit 

5.12a

   

FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel & Rick Smith, 10/89
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: year round
Views: 138 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007


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Heading into the overhanging crux of No Exit.


Description 

As the name implies, the crux of the route is the exit to the anchor. If the anchor was at the lip, the route would likely be rated 5.11.

Slabby, runout edge climbing on 5.7ish terrain to the way-high (15') first bolt leads to 5.10ish climbing up to the hard, overhanging finishing headwall. The crux is pulling over the top to the very highly placed anchors.

This route doesn't see much traffic and tends to stay very dirty because it's a natural rain run-off line.


Location 

Bolted line in the middle of the face left of the Cholla Wall face route. The steep, overhanging headwall at the top is obvious. Shown as route number 7 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

5 bolts to bolted anchor. The overhanging crux is very well protected. Watch out for the z-clip!



Comments on (07) No Exit Add Comment
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 21, 2009

Don't bother TRing this (at least, without draws on the bolts to keep you in line). If you fall near the crux, you can't get back on. So you have to be able to link all the crux moves, in which case you should be leading it anyways :-)

By Wa3lt
Sep 23, 2009
rating: 5.12b

I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.

I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits.