Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.
Location
The corner left of the bolted climb "No Exit" and just right of "Paul's Boutique. Shown as route number 6 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection
In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)
Best route at this grade at the Overlook and often "Overlooked" (please forgive me) by beginners. Also an enjoyable trad warmup.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.8
I agree, this is definitely one of the easiest cracks at Overlook and a nice lead for a beginning trad leader. It tends to be a bit dirty after rainstorms, but the dust clears out pretty quick. Takes good pro and allows for those less comfortable climbing solely in a crack to stem their way all the way up. Widens a bit near the top, but there are good holds to the left of the chains that make clipping easy.
RSS Feed
