BETA PHOTO: Left side of the Overlook- North. Photo by [[10589...
Description
The often shady and cooler area at The Overlook. One can escape the summer's heat and enjoy numerous bolted sport routes.
This side of the Overlook isn't as popular as the east side because it's shorter and it can be difficult to reach the anchors from the top to set top ropes on some of the climbs. The bolted routes are high quality, as is the crack climb Crisis in Utopia, so a visit to the North Side of the Overlook is definitely worthwhile, but the first time visitor to the Overlook should stay probably on the Main Wall.
Getting There
Follow directions for reaching the main Overlook area. Once at the South/East side, continue hiking north along the base of the wall and around the point to your left.
Bolted Climbs, from Left to Right
(courtesy of Daniel Trugman; crack climbs in between not listed)
This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 19, 2007
As of May 2007, some of the climbs on the right side of the Overlook North (mainly beyond (06) Huecos Rancheros) had only 2 bolts for anchors, without any chains or slings to lower/rappel from.
EDIT: (July '08) Some or all of these (and at least all of them up to mid-5.11) have been fixed with links/chains. Thanks to the kind soul who's taking care of our crags.
Some of the directions for which routes are which are a bit confusing, and many routes are missing. Seeing as I've only climbed one route on the wall, I don't think it would be prudent for me to add these missing routes. However, the following list consists of the bolted routes on the NW side, from left to right, according to Beverly's Jemez Rock. I hope this helps, and feel free to correct any inaccuracies...
1. View with A Room 5.11b 2. Overlord 5.11a 3. Overlard 5.10a 4. Overripe Fresh Squeezed California Females 5.11b 5. D'Antonio Approach 5.12a 6. Huecos Rancheros 5.10c 7. Unknown 11d 8. Unknown ? 9. Just Say No to Jugs 5.11a 10. Vasoconstricter 5.12b 11. Dangle Your Participle 5.10c 12. Overlichen 5.11a 13. Chocolate Thunder 5.11d 14. Hammertime 5.12b 15. Citizen of Time 5.11d 16. Primal Scream 5.12a 17. Overkill 5.11a/b 18. Lubme 5.12a 19. Biomechanoid 5.12a 20. Putterman Gully Jump 5.10a
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