Mountain Project: Climbing Los Alamos & White Rock

Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Winter climbing is often done here on nice days.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the beta photo

Getting There

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South/East side:

(06) Headwall Crack Left 5.8 Trad, TR, 55 feet

(16) Polly's Crack 5.8+ Trad, TR, 60 feet

(24) Box Overhang Left 5.9- Trad, TR, 55 feet

(08) Headwall Crack Right 5.9 Trad, TR, 50 feet

(11) Cholla Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, 50 feet

(12) Holy Wall 5.10a Sport, TR, 55 feet

(10) Cholla Wall 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, TR, 55 feet

(03) Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 5.10b Sport, 55 feet

(14) Dave's Face 5.10c Sport, TR, 60 feet

(01) Bosker Boozeroo 5.11a Sport, 60 feet

(15) Way Beyond Zebra 5.11b Sport, TR, 65 feet

(25) Len's Roof 5.11b Trad, TR, 55 feet

(05) Paul's Boutique 5.11b Sport, 55 feet

(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet

(29) Thorazine Dream 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet

(20) Face Off 5.12a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Featured Route For South/East side

(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South/East side

Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tough lower section to first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs. Staying on the face is 5.11c. Using the arete on the right makes is 5.10d-ish. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on South/East side

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 13, 2008

Thanks to the climber that donated "fixed" carabiners on (09) Double Vision / Ream Dream, (15) Way Beyond Zebra, and (20) Face Off recently. Let's hope some naive climber doesn't see them and think he scored some bootie (like the last time this occurred on (15) Way Beyond Zebra.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 11, 2009

Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?

Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 11, 2009

Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty".

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South/East side

Description

Getting There

The Classics