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Los Alamos Crags
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Los Alamos Crags

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 28, 2008
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 35.8796  Longitude: -106.2955 
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Description 

There is a great array of crags near the town of Los Alamos, on the various rhyolite outcrops and canyons nearby. The Dungeon area is the hardman sport climbing area nearby and sees frequent visits, but most of the other areas are rather obscure and have very little information published in guidebooks. Though local climbers have been climbing in the Back Rocks/Clifty areas above Los Alamos for over 50 years, White Rock became the more popular local destination sometime in the 1970s and most locals climb mainly at White Rock or the Dungeon. For those who don't mind hiking 10-15 minutes, the crags and canyons in Los Alamos are definitely worth exploring and have a lot of potential.

- The Dungeon: The best and most popular crag nearby. Premier overhung rhyolite sport climbing in a beautiful setting. A great summer area.

- The Back Rocks: North of Clifty in upper Rendia Canyon with about 20 routes.

- Clifty: A Rhyolite crag near the town of Los Alamos. A nice get-away for locals.

- Upper Clifty: On the top of The Clifty Hill and can be seen from the north community of Los Alamos.

- Y, The: hosts 45' crack climbs in a narrow portion of lower Los Alamos Canyon. A good choice for basalt climbing in Los Alamos/White Rock in the summer.

- Los Alamos Canyon: A selection of ice and rock climbs can be found in Los Alamos Canyon, just south of the town of Los Alamos.

- School Canyon: A vast tuff crag with lots of potential for route development and lots of fun bouldering. Most of the routes are pretty short but tend to offer stiff and entertaining climbing.

- Pueblo Canyon: Decent quality streambed bouldering area as well as longer cracks on less-than-perfect rock.

- other undocumented areas: Lots of excellent bouldering and other climbing can be found in the hills and canyons near Los Alamos for those willing to explore. Go find it!


Getting There 

From I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Pojoaque. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you to the Los Alamos/White Rock split. Follow highway 501 to Los Alamos, and look at individual area directions from there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Los Alamos Crags:
(03) Trash Disco   5.10a/b     Sport, 35 feet   The Dungeon : Trash Tower
Pleasure Cruise   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Dungeon : The Fin Wall
Rampage   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   The Dungeon : Black Wall
(06) Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman)   5.11b     Sport, 35 feet   The Dungeon : Trash Tower
(14) Moat Jump   5.12a     Sport   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(11) Crimp Chimp   5.12a     Sport, 40 feet   The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(10) Tendon Bendin' (aka Tendon Bender)   5.12b     Sport, 35 feet   The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(03) Meltdown   5.12b     Sport, 30 feet   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(07) Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope)   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(10) Gangland   5.12b     Sport, 65 feet   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(15) Moat Pump   5.12c     Sport, 75 feet   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(04) Beastmaster   5.12c/d     Sport, 45 feet   The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(06) Siege Warfare   5.12c/d     Sport   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(11) Loose Cannon   5.13a     Sport   The Dungeon : Main Wall
(05) Evil Alchemist   5.13a     Sport   The Dungeon : Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Los Alamos Crags

Featured Route For Los Alamos Crags
Allison on the FHA (first helmeted ascent) of Moat Jump.

(14) Moat Jump 5.12a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Very good route! Difficult start, then cruiz through the overhang, and then to the technical face above.Warning: Not a good warm up... Ha, but the only one we could find when the rain was coming down....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM