Chris D. moves over the bulge crux as Nick T. bela...
Description
Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare! Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb.
Location
See beta picture. [Center of the Main Wall, just right of Siege Warfare, identifiable by the glue-in first bolt]
Protection
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Comments on (08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jul 9, 2007
Note that the beta photo that I created is slightly incorrect on this route. I apologies for that. Should someone post a new photo I am more than happy to replace the current one.
Super fun route. Hard moves off the deck with a good rest right afterward. Fun, balancy moves higher up too.
By Scott Beguin From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 30, 2007 rating: 5.12b
First ascent was Peter Gram, who was aided by many other belay slaves. This was put up on lead.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 6, 2009 rating: 5.12a PG13
Preclip the 2nd bolt or you will probably deck from 10-12' up, should you fall at the crux. Most people skip the first bolt, as it's hard to clip from the easiest way, and it's almost too low to be useful. (not a knock against the FA.. the ground level is higher now)
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 6, 2009 rating: 5.12a
This route can be identified as the only route on the main wall with a glue-in bolt for the first bolt.
By J. Albers From: California Oct 4, 2009 rating: 5.12-
I would agree that stick clipping the first bolt is wise, but you should have no need to pre-clip the second. If you blow the crux, the fall on the first bolt is clean other than possibly hitting the rope, especially now that there is a glue in instead of that semi-old SMC rig that used to be there.
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