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DescriptionWith the amount of climbing right around Los Alamos and White Rock, one would wonder why the locals would ever have to leave! From traditional basalt crags to steep or technical sport climbing, a nice diversity exists around these two towns. The various crags at White Rock have been popular for local and out of town climbers for years, with short approaches and quality basalt, with many of the cliffs being accessible for toproping (as well as leading) on bolted climbs as well as cracks. Now, The Dungeon area near Los Alamos has become the most popular area nearby, with steep overhanging climbs that appeal to the modern-day sport climber. Getting ThereThere are two different ways to get to the Los Alamos and White rock areas, one through the Jemez mountains (Highway 4) and the other by taking I-25 toward Santa Fe. The second is the most common and the quickest from either Albuquerque or Santa Fe. LogisticsCamping Looking for a Partner?If you're in the area for a short time, and don't know anyone.. there are a couple options if you want to do some climbing but don't want to commit to a plan. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Los Alamos & White Rock:
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet White Rock : The Playground
(11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9 Trad, 60 feet White Rock : Below The Old New Place
(09) Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a Trad, 60 feet White Rock : Below The Old New Place
(12) Holy Wall 5.10a Sport, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(10) Cholla Wall 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(11) Wisconsin 5.10c PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Y, The : North Wall of the Y
(38) Blow Hole 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet White Rock : The Playground
(14) Flying A 5.11- Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet White Rock : The Playground
(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet White Rock : Below The Old New Place
(14) Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet White Rock : Old New Place
(13) Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c Sport, 62 feet White Rock : Below The Old New Place
(05) Unrelenting Nines 5.11c/d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet White Rock : The Playground
(29) Thorazine Dream 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(14) Moat Jump 5.12a Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
(11) Crimp Chimp 5.12a Sport, 40 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(20) Face Off 5.12a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(10) Gangland 5.12b Sport, 65 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(08) Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b Sport, 80 feet The Dungeon : Main Wall
(04) Beastmaster 5.12c/d Sport, 45 feet The Dungeon : 45° Boulder
(11) Loose Cannon 5.13a Sport The Dungeon : Main Wall
Featured Route For Los Alamos & White Rock
(05) Monsterpiece Theatre 5.12a NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
This fine pocket-fest is the left route on a wide panel of stone that gets relatively early shade, and features 3 5.12a's. Begin up an easy slab to a high first bolt. Two more bolts of easy climbing and the wall rears up to a slight overhang. A good shake from killer pockets at the 4th bolt offer one last chance to recuperate before the crux. A set of heinously thin pockets lead up and right to another jug. A long reach heads back left to a ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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