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Violince Wall
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Violence 

Unknown Violince (7) 

5.8

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 87 page views

Submitted By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008


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    Description 

    Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab.


    Location 

    Right side of the overhanging roof of the primary wall, climb the corner and finish up high.


    Protection 

    Bolts, Chains


    Crux 

    The cruxy bulge can give the strongest climbers fits, which suprises most. Watched a stout 5.12 gym rat get spit out like a sunflower seed shell, LOL. Anyhow, as with most things in climbing, it is all about your feet. Throwing up a high left foot, shifting your weight onto it, using the holds for balance not to pull up, then stand up and walk....I mean climb to the next bolt.



    Add Photo Photos of Unknown Violince (7)
    Tony on lucky #7.

    Tony on lucky #7.


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    By Anthony Stout
    Administrator
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Feb 25, 2008
    rating: 5.8

    This route is one of the best 5.8's, if not the best, that I have climbed in New Mexico. Long (compared to most New Mexico routes), with flawless stone, it is not to be missed!

    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    Mar 11, 2008

    If we visit this wall, everyone usually does this route at least once. The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.

    By Anthony Stout
    Administrator
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Mar 11, 2008
    rating: 5.8

    Craig Childre wrote:
    The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.


    I can't say much regarding it being the best in the canyon, but I thought it was certainly better than (02) Fossil Fuel, which was the only other 5.8 I did while I was there. I said one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, which really is not saying much either, I have not seen many great 5.8 sport routes in New Mexico (I'm comparing it with places in at my end of the woods, i.e: Datil, El Rito, Palomas, White Rock, etc.) Though, I have done better trad routes of the grade in the Sandias and at Tres Piedres.