Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Thank You,
Tony New Mexico Mountain Project Admin.
Tony getting pyshced for the big roof of "Fiddler ...
Description
Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains.
Location
Look for the high roof with the beautiful finger crack splitting the final section. 3rd from the left.
Protection
Bolts, and Chains. Skip the last bolt, it is for top ropers and lowering off, it keeps the rope from getting caught down in the crack if your sagging through the last section. If you slip out of that crack, or even fall off the jug up top, the fall is long indeed, but really clean.
Wildlife
Sometimes the upper crack has a resident, so look before you throw in that finger lock. Considering one day we watched a 16" centepede crawl across our rope as it lay against the wall, my partner having just untied. The thing had a thicker body than our rope!
Bailing
Don't be scared of this one just because of that roof crack up top! Consider that if you can not unlock the moves on that upper crack (fairly common), then you can unclip the last two bolts under the roof and easily traverse over to the chains on #12. Have fun!
Fun route, with a wide variety of climbing. This route has a little bit of everything. The last bolt seemed like clipping it would be the crux without the draw already hung and the previous draw is not far behind so I would recommend skipping it. By the time it is easy to clip you're at the anchors.
Violince Wall
RSS Feed
