Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Thank You,
Tony New Mexico Mountain Project Admin.
Description
This fine route is one of the better hard lines at Tornado Alley, thanks to its sustained nature. There is no really distinct crux, but several sections that will keep your attention until the very end. A scary sequence getting to the clipping stance for the second bolt detracts somewhat. Stick-clipping this bolt is recommended if you have a long enough pole.
Begin in the wash or traverse out left from the end of the ledge. After clipping the first bolt, the line heads left into the large huecos of "Fujimata" before busting back right with the help of a sharp but deep two-finger pocket. A good crimp sets you up for a short dyno to the large jug past the second bolt. A fall before clipping this bolt would not be pretty.
Head up for ten feet, then traverse left as you surmount the roof with more dynamic moves. A mediocre rest is possible over the roof. Head up for 15 feet before a traverse back right and more good holds lead to the chains.
Location
First bolted route right of "Fujimata". This route is not shown on the photo topo. Its located half-way between Route # 9 and Route # 10 on the photo topo.