Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>
After careful consideration and discussions with Access Fund representatives and members of the climbing community, posting Last Chance Canyon beta will now be allowed on Mountain Project. However, when climbing at Last Chance Canyon we must be considerate of the Forest Services’ current ban on bolting new routes, climbing, and trespassing within the Solstice and Hermit Caves. The concerns of the Forest Service include archeological resources and rare or endangered plant species in the area. Please, tread lightly, and approach the area with a sense of respect.
Access Fund representatives are currently working with the Forest Service in creating a Climbing Management Plan for the area. We can assist them in this process by acting responsibly as a user group. As a community of climbers, it is important that visiting and local climbers share the responsibility in conducting themselves in a way that reflects positively on our larger community. Please respect the requests and policies of the Forest Service in order to preserve our access to this area.
Scott making the crux move of TNT. Pinch with the...
Description
Fun sustained slabby face climbing route. Start up on fairly easy ground past the first two bolts to a nice rest under the roof. Hit the devious crux pulling the roof at the third bolt, (draw can be a reach to hang). From here it stays continuous for the next few bolts before easing off before the anchors.
No spiders this time around, but beware in the past I have had encounters with hoards of Daddy Longlegs in the pockets, bumping up the grade a bit.
This route gets a 10b in the original line topos, but our group decided it was closer 10d.
Location
Route #4 on Monomaniac's topo's. Second route right of the prominent arete Texas Twister.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 30, 2008 rating: 5.10d
I found all of the moderate routes I did at LCC to sandbagged (and all the hard routes were soft--how's that for ego stroking!). For the topos I provided, I adjusted the grades (based on my opinion) for the routes I've done, which ufortunately isn't very many. If the topo has a questioin mark by the grade, I definately haven't done it, but there are other routes on the topos that don't have question marks that I also have not done. In that case, I got the grade from someone I talked to who had done the route.
By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Feb 15, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Beta: Crux is at the third bolt. Clip the 3rd, and you can step down into a good rest before starting the business. Work back up and pinch a chockstone that sits back in a large pocket with your right. Set Right foot on a nob about 2 feet below, look for the skids. Left hand goes up to a triangle shaped dish. Right hand goes over to some chirps. Bump up your feet. Left hand has a nice three finger pocket. Then fire up to the jugs by the 4th. The rest is 5.8.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 25, 2008 rating: 5.10d
No spiders this time around. Great rock and fun moves, with a devious crux around the third bolt that detracts somewhat from the climbing.
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