Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Scramble up into the shallow scoop to gain a comfortable stance to clip the high first bolt. Make a couple more moves using holds on the right to a semi-reachy clip to the second bolt. The reachy clip is nice because it puts you on mini toprope as you move into the crux of the route--getting up to and clipping the third bolt. To get to the third clip, make some steep, awkward layback or gaston-type moves to reach the nice handrail-like hold right of the bolt. When moving past the third bolt try not to step on the second bolt that is placed in what appears to be the best foot hold area on the faint arete. If you're very careful you might be able to place your toes around the bolt while you move up. A couple more tedious moves get you up to a huge horn and the fourth bolt. The fifth clip is just a short distance up on easier ground and more easier ground to the chains.
FA information would be appreciated. It's nice to see new routes being developed in the Jemez.
Location
Look for the strong black streak on the wall near the middle of the wall. The route ascends this streak.
Protection
5 bolts to anchor chains equipped with carabiners.
The 5.11c rating is a guess at the rating. Three people in our group are generally solid 5.11 climbers and they all had a fair amount of difficulty with the crux. I'm pretty tall and managed it fairly well so I'll suggest it's easier if you're taller.
I've got to agree with Dave, very little interesting climbing on rock that will probably be slow to clean up if ever. One of the cruxes is definitly not stepping on the second bolt. But I might just not like it because I failed to flash it.
Wild Hogs Wall
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