Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Of the two bolted routes in the Love Shack, this is the one on the left. Starts nearly horizontal, then continues steep/ pumpy through 3 bolts of sustained climbing. Interesting mix of holds (pinches, slopers, pockets), excellent rock. The last few moves ease off in difficulty, but the pump factor keeps things interesting to the chains.
Great Route! Fun short and powerful. 4 stars just for the cool unique holds, the closest thing to tufas I have found in NM. Usually graded 12d, but seems a bit easier.
Maybe the high humidity just made it feel like 12c, haha.
The anchors to the right route (Deathgrip) still looked pretty funky when I was on it Saturday. Short two link chains held in place by washers and a nut, on what looked to be smaller than 3/8" stud bolts. Many thanks if the anchors were upgraded yesterday.
I replaced them on Sunday. I did not have the right length of camouflage chain with me so at some point in the next few weeks I will replace the regular chain I left. There is now a new bolt above the old right bolt and equalized chains for easier rope pulling. The new anchor is consequently further right and does not put your rope in the stream when it drops. Funny how this climb went for years with no action and now everyone is on it.
Love Shack area
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