Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Allison getting ready to pull through the crux of ...
Description
Great route that would deserve more stars if it were not for the scary fall factor! Watch the wall as you make the crux move using the crimper into the dish! Also, watch where your feet are in relation to the rope, it could make for a bad fall. Route is mellow except for the crux move discussed above.
Location
Left side of the crag. Start in the dihedral and power through a short boulder problem, with easier slab climbing above, then the crux.
Protection
7 bolts to anchors.
Add CommentComments on (02) Better Late than Never
Show which comments —
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 17, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Enjoyable and long route. Crux is definitely at 6th bolt but is protected well. I can attest to the fall at the crux being clean! =) I've seen it done a number of different ways. Being 6'5", I grab the arete on the right but others mantle up on thin feet.
Listed as route #2 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 14, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Fun climb, but not 5.11c IMO. (I say that because I'm not onsighting 11c and I onsighted this, which made me feel like a rockstar when I saw the rating! Maybe I just got lucky???) Bottom move is bouldery if the direct approach is taken; an easier alternative lies to the right, then it's mellow up to the crux, a move of 11, then 5.10 climbing after that.
I do not know if the current anchors are what the first ascension team put on there but they are currently crap--1/4" diameter quick links with a breaking strength of less than 800 pounds I would bet. Next time I am out there I will replace them. If anyone else gets there first, bring a wrench and put some real hardware on there before someone who does not know any better craters while TRing directly through the anchors. Someone was way too stingy with the anchor setup and needs to replace the crux bolt.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 27, 2008 rating: 5.11a
William, I definitely agree with you there and have been meaning to fix these anchors with some quality Fixe hardware donated by NMCRAG. I hope to do this soon but if you'd like to remove the 1/4" links up there ASAP, that would be great.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 30, 2008 rating: 5.11a
The anchor set-up now appears great, and has fixed anchor biners for easy cleaning (May '08). THANKS, Jason!
As always, if toproping, it's best to use your own draws rather than the biners at the anchor to minimize wear on fixed hardware.
The crux (2nd to last) bolt is still a little iffy, although I expect that it will hold a fall.
Gateway Rock
RSS Feed
