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Jemez Falls
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Jemez Falls 
Renovation of Expectation 

Renovation of Expectation 

M7+

   

FA: Teague Barto, Scott Beguin, and Dave Mills
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport, Mixed
Consensus: M7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: winter
Views: 220 page views

Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jan 28, 2008


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"Boots" Barto getting the FA.


Description 

This is a climb that consists of some mental and technical balancy mixed climbing. The crux is at the fourth bolt pulling the over hang. If you bust through the crux be sure to keep a cool head for the finishing headwall.


Location 

The obvious rock face to the right(south) of Jemez Falls proper. Walk off or rap back down.


Protection 

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Renovation of Expectation Slideshow Add Photo
"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.

"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.

Dave Mills on the upper headwall. Photo taken by Teague Barto.

Dave Mills on the upper headwall. Photo taken by T...

Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right of Jemez Falls.

BETA PHOTO: Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right...


Comments on Renovation of Expectation Add Comment
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By Marc Beverly
From: New Mexico
Dec 29, 2008

Glad to see some other "pick heads" out there putting some stuff up ! Thanks - I'll get on it sometime. Is there any ice on this route?

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 30, 2008

There is currently ice on the bottom and some snow/frozen mud on other parts. We were out there yesterday and it was in form to kick our butts. It might be harder than M7. It definitely requires some endurance. Go do it Marc. Tell us what grade you think it is. There is also more route potential to the left of the falls up the overhanging rock, M10 or harder maybe?