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All Dogs go to Heaven, Toby 

5.12

   

FA: Lance Hadfield
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 80 feet
Views: 94 page views

Submitted By: LeeAB on Feb 22, 2009


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Description 

Fun movement, nice pump, suspect rock, dusty. The last of which would improve with more traffic.

Stem up the chimney a ways till you can clip the first bolt then maybe a move higher to reach some jugs. Pull onto the main wall and make a move up to clip the second bolt. A series of left facing pinches takes you past the third and to the fourth bolt. Make a traverse over to some questionable jugs on big feet, clip and catch a rest on jugs to the right or the horizontal. Move up into an undercling then out left to the arete, a small but good crimp allows you to make a big move up left to a sidepull crack, preferably after you've clipped the bolt. More laybacking on the arete and some slopers gets you up the arete and onto the face. More nice left hand sidepulls takes you up to where you can move right a bit around a corner to clip the last bolt on Trinity then climb the slight runout to the anchors.


Location 

This is the middle route of the 5.12's at the right side of the wall. It is the first route that starts with steming up the gash and climbs up to and follows the steep arete.

The bolt line right of the red hangers.


Protection 

9 bolts and chain anchors.