Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Near the top of the first pitch one can move left ...
Description
A 2 pitch route with a good crack first pitch and an fun airy 2nd pitch. Look for the open book you'll climb on the first pitch. To get to this, climb up easy ground, place a 3" cam below a hand traverse left, then up thin hand cracks [5.8] with good stemming opportunity (fun!) to block terrain with some rubble and a 2 bolt anchor. Ditch the rack on the anchor, and go up Pitch 2 with only quickdraws: Up and right (crux) on fun face climbing right of the arete, clipping 8 bolts on the way. Stay off the arete if you have dignity. This is what you came for and it's super cool to be way up high at Gilman! I believe that you could just barely link the 2 pitches into a 59.5m single pitch with horrendous rope drag... but why? Hot in the sun in the p.m.
Location
Just past the 2nd tunnel on the left side... Start just left of XXX and a bolted dihedral where the rock almost reaches the road, identify an open book first pitch. Descent: Rap twice with a single 60m rope, or 1 60m double rope rappel to the dirt.
Protection
cams 0.5" to 3" for the 1st pitch only. 2 bolt anchors at the 1st and 2nd belays. It is possible that the top anchor might still be improved by the addition of chains (or webbing in a pinch) to one of the two bolts, (unless someone has already fixed it)?
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.8-
This is a fun climb mixing up the trad and sport disciplines. The first pitch (gear pitch) felt no harder than 5.8 and protected well with medium cams (.75, 1 and 2 BDs). The second pitch is enjoyable, well-protected face climbing on small edges.
Second Tunnel
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