This unfortunate chunk of stone leaves a lot to be desired. Mercifully short, this route climbs marginal rock that is generally covered in dirt and spider webs. However, if you like a challenge and are desparate to climb something on the left side of the road, this is probably better than going to a staff meeting.
Scramble over some pretty loose talus, then a delicate step right to a sloping ledge at the base of the imposing steep left leaning bolted dihedral. A long reach gets you started. Then jam strenuously, laybacking, along with finger locks and stemming help you make your way up the painful dihedral crack. Eventually as the angle lessens the corner ends and the anchor is on your right.
[Both Monomaniac and LeeAB deserve credit for this route description, as each of their individual contributions were combined]
Location
The first route left of the obvious XXX face, this is a bolted, steep, left-leaning dihedral.
Lee, I think this is the same as Monomaniac's entry for Banzai. Unless there is another dihedral with a super chossy start in the area. Sounds like you had a slightly better experience then he or I did for the 2 star rating, maybe it is starting to clean up.
Whoops, yes it is the same. We need to find out the name. Lance might know...or not.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 19, 2009 rating: 5.10c
I merged the two route descriptions together, since they both were pretty good. If anyone hears of the climb's name, post 'er on up.
Glad to hear this climb is cleaning up. It is an aesthetic line, but it was still a little grungy when I climbed it a year or two ago.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 19, 2009
I would understand if the person who bolted this isn't interested in taking "credit" for it. I've got a few "contributions" of my own that will remain forever anonymous :) Sometimes projects just don't work out the way you hope they will.
By JimmyK From: Flagstaff, AZ Jun 18, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Nice route. I thought it was fairly clean and worthy of one's time.
The name of the climb is Banzai and is rated at 5.10b; This was Ian's first route that he put up I guess, so give him a break. I've led it on gear, and the grade might be a bit harder, but it's GILMAN. The rock sucks here and people think it's a trad area. Whatever.
RSS Feed
