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Gilman Tunnels

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Elevation: 6,247 feet
Latitude: 35.7358  Longitude: -106.7640 
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The Gilman Tunnels Area. The first Tunnel is visi...


Description 

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Trads into Rads   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Wet Feet   5.9     Sport, 50 feet   Dr. Seuss Wall
Entrapment   5.9     Sport, 60 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Leftist Tendencies   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Dr. Seuss Wall
Old Punks on Crack   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Out of the Shadows   5.10b     Sport, 60 feet   Second Tunnel
At Your Cervix, Madam   5.10c     Sport, 40 feet   Gyno Wall
Cyber Crime   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
XXX   5.12     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Second Tunnel
Dough Boy   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Browse More Classics in Gilman Tunnels

Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with help of some nice jugs. An intenses rock-over crux...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Comments on Gilman Tunnels Add Comment
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By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 27, 2007

Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.

This is a really cool newer climbing area. Thanks to those who developed this recently there is lots to do! That the developers are returning to improve the climbs through better bolt positions is the reason the bolt counts are off sometimes, I think.

By Marc Beverly
From: New Mexico
Sep 20, 2007

George,
That's correct about the bolt count. The feedback was that the routes were "too run out" at some points, so we've gone back to help the distress level. A clip stick is always a good idea when sport climbing. Remember, it's just sport climbing.

Also, the grades of some of the climbs are "about grades" since there have not been other ascents. I think that the grades will level out after some cleaning up. Some will be harder (Two Stirrups...) and some will be easier (Judge Dread). The stars should go up though..we'll see.

Cheers,
Marc Beverly

By Marc Beverly
From: New Mexico
Oct 31, 2007

A couple more comments on the area:

Most of the bolts here have been painted after having some discussions with the Forest Service. Please establish routes here but use camouflaged hangers or or paint. There is a lot of potential for more routes here.

I told the Forest Service that climbers were good to have here since our presence helps keep the graffiti down and the riff-raff away. Also, pick up some trash if you can, there's always plenty.

Camping is now off-limits in the lower Guadalupe Canyon Area all the way up to Porter's Landing (the bridge 1/2 way up FR 376) You can still go up 376 past the closure gate and make the first left and go up the hill a ways to find some good camping options without having to drive to Porter's.