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Gilman Tunnels
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Broken Arrows, The 
Corridor, The 
Dr. Seuss Wall 
First Tunnel 
Gyno Wall 
Second Tunnel 
Spectator Wall 

Gilman Tunnels 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,247'
Lat, Long: 35.7358, -106.764 Map
Page Views: 33,178. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006

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The Gilman Tunnels Area. The first Tunnel is visi...

Description 

Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Sierra Corazon   5.5     Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet   Second Tunnel
Roadside Distraction   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   First Tunnel
Wet Feet   5.9     Sport, 50 feet   Dr. Seuss Wall
Leftist Tendencies   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Dr. Seuss Wall
Entrapment   5.9     Sport, 60 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Trads into Rads   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Jemez Back Scratcher   5.10a     Sport   The Corridor
Old Punks on Crack   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Juan It Done Right   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Dr. Seuss Wall
Out of the Shadows   5.10b     Sport, 60 feet   Second Tunnel
Moist Hoist   5.10b/c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Spectator Wall
At Your Cervix, Madam   5.10c     Sport, 40 feet   Gyno Wall
Cyber Crime   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Vicarious Living   5.10c/d     Sport, 2 pitches, 210 feet   Spectator Wall
Big Brother   5.11b     Sport, 80 feet   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Soylent Green   5.14a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Second Tunnel
Browse More Classics in Gilman Tunnels

Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Comments on Gilman Tunnels Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 27, 2007

Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.

This is a really cool newer climbing area. Thanks to those who developed this recently there is lots to do! That the developers are returning to improve the climbs through better bolt positions is the reason the bolt counts are off sometimes, I think.

By Christian Garland
From: Talala, OK
Dec 28, 2010

I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 28, 2010

If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....