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DescriptionBoasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea. Getting ThereFollow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Sierra Corazon 5.5 Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet Second Tunnel
Roadside Distraction 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet First Tunnel
Wet Feet 5.9 Sport, 50 feet Dr. Seuss Wall
Leftist Tendencies 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Dr. Seuss Wall
Entrapment 5.9 Sport, 60 feet The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Trads into Rads 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Jemez Back Scratcher 5.10a Sport The Corridor
Old Punks on Crack 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Juan It Done Right 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Dr. Seuss Wall
Out of the Shadows 5.10b Sport, 60 feet Second Tunnel
Moist Hoist 5.10b/c Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Spectator Wall
At Your Cervix, Madam 5.10c Sport, 40 feet Gyno Wall
Cyber Crime 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Vicarious Living 5.10c/d Sport, 2 pitches, 210 feet Spectator Wall
Big Brother 5.11b Sport, 80 feet The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Ecksteinator 5.12a Sport, 60 feet The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Dough Boy 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Soylent Green 5.14a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Second Tunnel
Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
Hostile Takeover 5.11d NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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