First pitch of Battleship. Good exposure at the co...
Description
A prominent 200 foot formation just off State Highway 4 north of Jemez Springs. Honestly not the best quality rock but well worth climbing for the iconic value. Be prepared for lots of (non-climber) spectators as the rock looms over a popular weekend picnic area.
Getting There
From Albuquerque, take highway 25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550. Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 11 miles. If coming from the other direction (Los Alamos) Battleship Rock is about 25 miles past Las Conchas. You can avoid paying the $5 parking fee by parking just off the highway, rather than directly at the picnic grounds.
The best climb is straight up the prow, and should be done in two pitches. The first pitch starts on the left side of the prow, is easy, but has poor protection, soft rock, and few placements (at least when I climbed it), but there were a few loose pitons that you didn't want to fall on. It will get your attention if still boltless.
The second pitch begins at a beautiful off-width crack (perhaps 6-8" wide) that takes you all the way to the top on very good rock. When I climbed it there were no bolts, and I hope it is still unbolted, because it is a classic, gorgeous, and smooth off-width. It would accept but 2 cams for the 40' crack, one at the bottom, and one at 20' up in a truly desperate location. It is very important to get that cam in because the layback gets even more desperate higher up (a 1.5 cam if I remember correctly).
A much easier exit is to bypass the off-width and exit to the left. Not even close in pucker factor, beauty, or difficulty. It is a walk off from the top.
Not sure when you climbed it, but there's always been bolts on this route. There's old bongs and pitons as well. It's likely the most classic route in the entire valley.
Brian Pletta and I had to have several discussions and meetings with the USFS just to keep this (and several other places) open to climbing. As long as nobody gets hurt, and climbers have respect for the area and other user groups, there shouldn't be any issues.
As for other climbs, there's loads of them, but they aren't posted in my guidebook, or online as this area is a bit touchy, since climbers apparently can "obstruct the view scape."