This is one of the most unusual and asthetic climbs on the New Side. Only sandy rock and a dangerously inadequate bolting job prevent it from receiving 3 or 4 stars. Climb the flakes and edges to the base of the obvious crescent-shaped arch feature with a finger crack. Stemming, fingerlocks, and underclinging, with great moves and delicate balance, take you to the end of the arch, and up over the top. Careful of loose rock on the topout.
Unfortunately, the second bolt is SO high that you WILL deck (from ~25 feet up) if you fall at that point in the climb. The runout is made worse by the soft, sandy nature of the rock in that section of the climb. NOT a recommended lead for these reasons. You could bring supplementary gear to use between bolts 1 and 2, but the rock is soft enough to make any gear very suspect. Best toproped by climbing either "Time Bandits" or "Chai Tea" and traversing right to the anchor. Highly recommended as a toprope climb, one of the best at Mentmore.
Location
A few meters to the right of the Detached Flake (see beta photo). The climb follows an obvious, right-trending line of flakes and an arch. Rap off Time Bandits.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is a long way back, but single-length slings work fine. Don't try to rap or lower off the anchor; traverse left to the Chai Tea/Time Bandits anchor to rap off, or take the long walk off.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 3, 2008
The route setter has noted to me that he will add another bolt to this climb to protect the run-out section. If someone sees this change, please let me know and I can change the description above, and the R rating.
One of the best routes on the wall if done as a toprope. Unique moves up a beautiful arching sandstone finger crack. I found the crux to be pulling past the 5th bolt over the top as its mainly slopers up there.
RSS Feed
