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The Land Beyond

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(01) Beagle 
(02) Smeagol 
(03) Gandolf 
(04) Servant of the Secret Fire 
(05) Something Lethal 
(06) Incredible Journey 
(07) Mr. Baggins 
(08) Lucky Number 
(09) Hoggle 
(10) American Psycho 
(12) Yo La Tango 
(13) Alice Does Wonderland 
(14) Lord of the Ring 
(15) Where the Thrush Knocks 
(16) Soft Start 
(17) Smaug 
(18) Frodo 
(19) Black Arrow 
Variation 


The Land Beyond

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 12, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 34.2530  Longitude: -107.9100 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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Description 

This area is composed of one large boulder about 1.8 miles beyond the tower (off the same road). The routes are of the same stone as the tower and thus, feature similar climbing. If your looking to pack a lot of routes into a short period of time, this is a great location. Although shorter than the tower, there is a quality selection of routes here. All the routes are right next to each-other and you don't have to travel far to get on another route. Grades range from 5.10a to 5.12 b/c, with the majority being in the mid 11 to low 12 range. Summer shade in the afternoon on the east side of the formation.

There are three different sides to the formation. The sides and routes are listed from left to right (west to east) as you see them from the road/trail.

(I) West Face (AKA Grid Wall)--9 routes

Hike up the trail and head left when you get to the boulder. This beautiful wall of overhung and pocketed rock is known as the grid wall for a reason. It's not difficult to get off route or create link ups on this one, whether on purpose or accident. Get an idea of where you are going before you start up these routes. Routes are listed from left to right.

(01) Beagle (5.11a)
(02) Smeagol (5.11c)
(03) Gandolf (5.11d/12a)
(04) Servant of the Secret Fire (5.12a)
(05) Something Lethal (5.12b)
(06) Incredible Journey (5.12b/c)
(07) Mr. Baggins (5.12a)
(08) Lucky Number (5.12a)
(09) Hoggle (5.10a)

(II) South Face--3 routes

The wall right in front of you as you approach the boulder.

(10) American Psycho (5.12d)
(11) Unknown (5.hard)
(12) Yo La Tango (5.11c/d)

(III) East Face--7 routes

The right side of the boulder looking from the trail/road.

(13) Alice Does Wonderland (5.12a)
(14) Lord of the Ring (5.11d)
(15) Where the Thrush Knocks (5.11d)
(16) Soft Start (5.10d)
(17) Smaug (5.10c)
(18) Frodo (5.11c)
(19) Black Arrow (5.11a)


Getting There 

Continue past the tower about 1.8 miles. When you see a windmill on your right, look left, and you will see the mammoth boulder up on the hill. Parking is on the right side of the road. The boulder is about a 50 foot hike up the hill from the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Land Beyond:
(09) Hoggle   5.10a     Sport, 50 feet   
(12) Yo La Tango   5.11d     Sport   
(03) Gandolf   5.11d     Sport   
(04) Servant of the Secret Fire   5.12a     Sport   
(13) Alice Does Wonderland   5.12a     Sport   
(10) American Psycho   5.12d     Sport, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Land Beyond

Comments on The Land Beyond Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2008

There is a new hard route on the front face here, between American Psycho and Yo La Tango. It starts out not too bad for the first two bolts, then gets incredibly hard between the 2nd and third bolts to a tricky lip encounter and an easy finish. Much harder than American Psycho probably at least mid 5.13. I couldn't touch the moves between the second and third bolt, you need some serious small pocket pulling power for this.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 1, 2008

Is the new line squeezed in? It seems from memory that there wouldn't be room for a third independent line. Anyway, sounds pretty cool...any monos?

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 2, 2008

No, it isn't too squeezed, there is about 15 feet between the two previous routes and this one is pretty much in the center. So while a little tight it doesn't share any holds and isn't any worse than the other routes on this wall.

The way I see the sequence going there are some bumps off of mono's but no outright mono moves.