Start up the first two bolts of Technowitch and break left at the third bolt. Beware there is some large loose stuff sitting on the ledge. Climb off the large through closely spaced bolts (very nice as a big fall would be scary here) on more solid then it looks rock. Negotiate the steep overhanging arete on good holds and set yourself up for the crux headwall finish.
Location
Leftmost route on the tower, shares first two bolts with technowitch and breaks left.
The grade is my guess; I thought this was harder than Technowitch but easier than Full Rubber Mission. The rock quality while not great is more solid than it looks. The upper headwall rock is comparable to the flakey rock found on Medusa. Be sure to put your feet in the pockets as the little flakes will more than likely break off. This is probably a symptom of all tower routes that are new or don't get climbed alot.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 14, 2009 rating: 5.12b
A really fun route - it seems to be cleaning up nicely. It's a worthy addition to the tower. I felt it to be a bit more difficult than both Tehnowitch and Rumplestilskin. And although it has been a while since I have done Full Rubber Mission (it's always difficult to compare these things), I felt the crux move after going through the no rest lower moves was at least as difficult as anything on Full Rubber Mission. After passing through the bulge to the arete, there are really no opportunities to shake out.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
